Paris is gorgeous at any time of year, but there’s something special about being there over Christmas, when the city gets all dressed up in lights and decorations. The large department stores – Galeries Lafayette on Boulevard Haussmann, BHV on rue de Rivoli in the Marais, Le Bon Marché on the Left Bank – go all out, bedecking their windows with often-elaborate displays (this year, BHV featured Mary Poppins and a team of adorable penguins). And while strolling through almost any neighborhood, you can turn a corner and be dazzled by lights and tinsel festively draped across the street for a block or two.

This year, our trip was even more laid-back than usual – sleeping late every morning, nesting in our apartment after dark, making sure not to crowd our calendar with more than one cultural outing a day – but we still managed to make our way to quite a few art exhibits. Plus, I had my usual list of bakeries and pastry shops to visit and restaurants to try and old friends to meet up with.

If you’re headed to Paris anytime soon, here are a few of my new favorite recommendations.

1. Joan Miró exhibit at the Grand Palais You have a little over a month to catch this amazing exhibition that spans the professional life of the Spanish painter. While I was familiar with his Bleus triptych and some other works, there was so much that was new to me! Granted, I’m not a Miró fanatic, but this exhibit really dove deep into the progression of his work and the many ways he kept his perspective fresh. As you weave your way through the halls, you’ll be met by paintings, sculptures and videos. At the very end awaits a beautiful example of his “burn canvas” work – make sure to spend some time with it before hustling into the gift shop.

2. La Pâtisserie de Cédric Grolet at Le Meurice When you’re one of the most talked-about pastry chefs on the planet, everyone wants a piece of you – or at least, one of your creations. I was among the many who braved the cold (and potential crowds) to secure one of M. Grolet’s super cool fruit/pastry masterpieces. My mom and dad had stopped by earlier in the week but were deterred by the line, so I made sure to head over about 20 minutes before opening time (noon, Tuesday-Sunday). After a misfire on Dec. 26 (there was an unmarked “fermeture exceptionnelle“ at the boutique), I had success the next morning, claiming the first spot in line and my choice of pastries. The orange and apple were definite yeses (each with a creamy fruit-dotted filling), and I threw in another (one of these, I can’t remember what it was called) since I was there. These treats are not inexpensive – you’re going to plunk down about 15 euros per – but probably a once-in-a-lifetime indulgence for me.

3. L’Atelier des Lumières This “light workshop” is one of the newest galleries to grace Paris’ art scene. Head over to the 11th arrondissement and you’ll find a large, warehouse-type building where exhibitions light up the walls and floors. Wander around the space, and you’ll gain different perspectives as the art floats around you. The Klimt exhibit that we saw closes January 6, but one featuring the works of Van Gogh will be opening in February and running through the rest of the year.

4. Le Numéro 41 If you plan on being in the 16th arrondissement, perhaps at the Musée Marmottan Monet, make a reservation at this cheery bistro right at metro stop Ranelagh. Sink into the peacock blue banquettes, order a bottle of wine and enjoy a leisurely lunch or dinner. I highly recommend the oeuf cocotte, a baked egg immersed in a rich truffle cream sauce, to start with. We loved everything we had, right down to the finishing cup of hot cocoa served with a bite-sized side of chocolate. Desserts were tempting – both the profiteroles and the île flottant beckoned – but I was saving myself for another bite of chocolate from Chapon, right across the street.